Adriano Goldschmied’s and TENCEL™ collaboration discovers wider indigo applications

Figure: Courtesy: Collected

Lenzing’s latest launch, TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo technology, offers the denim industry an opportunity to think outside the box in using the indigo-dyed fibers. As we debut these fibers on the market, who better than the Godfather of Denim Adriano Goldschmied to pioneer this new product?

Figure: TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo technology, offers the denim industry an opportunity to think outside the box in using the indigo-dyed fibers. Courtesy: Collected

Adriano, who founded creative agency House of Gold as well as denim labels including AG Jeans, is among the first to create a commercial collection using TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo technology. Dubbed Seed of Joy, the line’s name is meant to reflect the added creative and fashion freedom possible with these new fibers, as well as the material’s sustainability benefits.

“The TENCEL™ brand is leading revolutionary change for the denim industry, and it has always been one of my go-to eco-fibers for my collections,” said Adriano.

TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo technology trades the resource-intensive rope dyeing for dope dyeing. Instead of having to use large amounts of water to dye yarn, indigo pigment is added to the fibers at the point of creation.

With this change in dyeing process, the indigo-hued materials also have significantly reduced crocking, or color transfer. Because of this, TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo technology can be used for apparel items that would typically be risky for indigo, such as sweaters, allowing the dye to move beyond the five-pocket jean.

Seed of Joy is a collaborative effort. Denim fabrics were produced by Blue Diamond, while In the Loop created knit textiles. For finishing, Adriano tapped Tonello. With the addition of sweater knits, Adriano worked with flat knitting firm Shima Seiki to create garments with less waste.

“TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo technology is a game changer for flat-bed knit applications,” said Hayato Nishi, U.S. PR Manager at Shima Seiki.

“Traditionally, when trying to knit with indigo yarns, the indigo dye was a problem for knit manufacturers since the yarns stained the needles on the machines during knitting process. The dye stain builds up over time, and requires heavy cleaning after production runs to keep the machines in workable condition,” Nishi added.

“The new eco-responsible TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo technology yarn developed by Lenzing ultimately resolves this issue by changing its dyeing process in collaboration with DyStar®, having superior dry and wet crocking and rubbing. This new technology provides indigo coloration with substantial water, chemical and electricity savings, along with less wastewater produced, and no heat energy used,” he added.

“By using these yarns in combination with Shima Seiki’s Wholegarment 3D knitting technologies, we’re able to drastically reduce wastage and achieve savings by producing garments in the most sustainable form of knitting today. Wholegarment machines knits garments all in one-piece from yarn to garment with no need for cut and sew or linking, and offers a new and truly sustainable knit offering to the fashion industry.”

“We found the use of TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo technology extremely interesting, especially on knitwear,” said Alice Tonello, Marketing and R&D Manager of laundry Tonello.

“Specifically, we have achieved some nice contrasts using OBleach, our responsible ozone bleaching system, the first to reproduce an authentic effect without using any kind of harmful chemical. In addition, as an added value of this new technology from Lenzing, we found significant rubbing fastness performance.”

Furthering the sustainable credentials of the collection, Adriano used Crafil thread made of TENCEL™, creating products that are fully recyclable.

“Collaborating with Adriano Goldschmied to develop TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo technology was an amazing honor,” said Tricia Carey, Director Global Business Development Denim at Lenzing.

“Bringing his history of denim design, as well as using TENCEL™ branded fibers, Adriano used his passion to reduce environmental impacts. From initial conception to application development to industry partnerships, Adriano’s vision to bring this innovation to commercial reality was limitless.”